No. 3 beach pick: Hatteras Island, N.C.

The Outer Banks arc like an elbow into the Atlantic Ocean off the North Carolina coast. This long, narrow and geographically unique chain of barrier islands seems tenuously fragile but, surprisingly, they endure. Cape Hatteras National Seashore, established in 1953, preserves 72 miles of Outer Banks coastline along three islands: Bodie, Hatteras, and Ocracoke (north to south). A bridge connects Bodie and Hatteras islands, while state ferries link Hatteras with Ocracoke. By far the greatest length of national seashore -- more than 50 miles -- belongs to Hatteras Island, the middle of the three. You come to Hatteras for a pure, unadulterated family beach vacation -- not to shop, socialize with strangers or perhaps even eat out all that much. Do bring a fishing pole or two, as the surf, sound, pier and offshore fishing are unrivaled.

AGE APPROPRIATE

Fun for the whole family -- but do keep an eye on younger children or surfing teens -- the waves can get rougher than normal for the mid-Atlantic Coast and there are no lifeguards.

TOO MUCH FUN

Why Hatteras Island, admittedly distant and difficult to reach even from within North Carolina? Easy answer: Hatteras Island’s beach seems to go on forever -- an endless strand of coarse brown sand flanked by ocean (the Graveyard of the Atlantic) and dunes. There’s lots to do in the way of activities, but lots not to do as well, if you so choose. Here, enjoying coastal nature in the raw can be quite enough.

BEST ADVENTURE

Lace up your walking shoes and go vertical. Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, the nation’s tallest, will cost you 265 calf-burning steps to the top. From the circular viewing platform, the mesmerizing scenic views of the low-lying island are so awesome you won’t want to come down. In 1999 the lighthouse was moved a half-mile inland, on a specially constructed railroad track, away from sure destruction by the surf. The museum tells the tale; the nearby Buxton Woods family trail explores the maritime forest.

KEEP 'EM HAPPY

Wear ‘em out! You’ve got your choice of hang gliding, windsurfing, scuba diving, kite flying, surfing, boogie boarding, sea kayaking, biking and fishing -- for starters. If you really want to make sure the little ones sleep well, take them for a hike up Jockey’s Ridge, the East Coast’s largest sand dune, on Bodie Island, near more northerly Nags Head. While you’re at it, visit the nearby Wright Brothers’ Memorial, erected on the spot where Orville and Wilbur took off in their newfangled flying contraptions back in 1903. There’s also a North Carolina specialty: outdoor drama. “The Lost Colony” depicts the vanished first English colony.

TIMING IS EVERYTHING

February is peak time for viewing migratory waterfowl on Pea Island National Wildlife Reserve, at the north end of Hatteras Island (free spotter scopes festoon view towers on easy trails). Fishermen come down around Easter and Thanksgiving for the legendary twice-yearly bluefish blitzes.

AVOID THE CROWDS

In a sense, you’ve avoided the crowds just by coming to Hatteras Island. But to really escape the asphalt, pitch a tent at one of the four National Park Service campgrounds along Cape Hatteras National Seashore. The most appealing is in Frisco (252-473-2111), where the dunes still stand tall.

CAN'T MISS

A ferry trip to Ocracoke, the 12-mile island just south of Hatteras, is a must-do day trip. Bring bread to toss at the seagulls that trail the boat for handouts. This beach is often ranked as the nation’s best. The quaint little village of the same name at the south end is isolation itself, like Key West years ago. Check out the 1823 lighthouse, the oldest active lighthouse in North Carolina. (You might head home via Ocracoke -- it’s a two-hour ferry cruise to the mainland.)

BARGAIN LODGING/DINING

A trio of well-tended motor courts that cluster on Route 12 in Buxton, one of the handful of small communities that dot Hatteras Island, has been hosting happy families since the ‘50s. The Outer Banks Motel, the Cape Hatteras Motel and the Lighthouse View motel have long been favorites. In the food department, breakfast at the Diamond Shoals Restaurant and lunch or dinner at The Tides are solid, economical bets.

INSIDE TRACK

This is the place to surf the wind or ride the waves. There’s great surfing near Cape Hatteras Lighthouse at Cape Hatteras Point. In addition, perhaps the premier windsurfing spot on the East Coast -- known as Canadian Hole -- is located on the sound side near Hatteras’ precariously thin midsection. Rent some gear, and give it a try.

-- Parke Puterbaugh, beach guidebook author