No. 5 national park pick: Glacier National Park

Glacier, in Washington state, sits atop the roof of the continent and spreads rivers of ice. This landscape has its full complement of prey and predators, even a slice of temperate rain forest. There are cascading streams and alpine lakes for fishing, paddling, or simply skipping stones, and hundreds of miles of trails that lead to some of the most remote backcountry in the Lower 48. Glacier marks its centennial in 2010, which gives you plenty of time to make plans to visit. Do it soon. Scientists say the glaciers could vanish by 2030.

 
AGE APPROPRIATE

 
Whether you’re 6 or 60, there’s amazement to be had standing a dozen feet or so from a wooly mountain goat on Logan Pass. The easy hike to Avalanche Lake dips only 2 miles into the backcountry, but rewards with a gorgeous waterfall-and-lake setting perfect for a picnic lunch. The Trail of the Cedars nature hike traverses an elevated boardwalk through a leafy forest that’s a quick and easy way to introduce youngsters to the woods. More ambitious hikers can head to Hidden Lake above Logan Pass or Grinnell Glacier.

 
TOO MUCH FUN

 
Glacier is built around wilderness, so most activities involve the out-of-doors. You can take a boat cruise (glacierparkboats.com, 406-257-2426) across Lake McDonald, Swiftcurrent Lake, Two Medicine Lake or St. Mary Lake, hike one of the more than 700 miles of trails, ride a historic Red Jammer bus (glacierparkinc.com, 406-892-2525) up to and over Logan Pass to Many Glacier Hotel, or head to one of the park’s smaller lakes for a weekend, or week, of camping.

 
BEST ADVENTURE

 
You’re more than “a typical hiker” when you set out at Glacier, venture down the Highline Trail, and turn yourself into a high mountain “hut hiker.” For time-tested hikers or those out for their first night in the backcountry, this trail leads to the Granite Park Chalet (graniteparkchalet.com, 888-345-2649), a stone shelter with a dozen rooms, bunk beds, a community kitchen and real adventure. For more comfortable accommodations in a similar backcountry setting, take the Sperry Trail to the Sperry Chalet (sperrychalet.com, 888-345-2649).

 
KEEP ‘EM HAPPY

 
The Glacier Institute (glacierinstitute.org, 406/755-1211) offers day- and weeklong programs for kids ages 7-12 that introduce them to camping, teach them how to use map and compass, or provide a primer on the park’s ecology. Raft the Flathead River through the Montana Raft Co. (glacierguides.com, 800-521-RAFT). Big Mountain Resort (bigmtn.com, 800-858-4157) is 25 miles west of Glacier in Whitefish. During summer take a “Walk in the Treetops” along a boardwalk 70 feet up in the sky.

 
TIMING IS EVERYTHING

 
Glacier’s high season is just about 100 days between June and mid-September. A late-June visit ensures fewer crowds, cooler temperatures and snowfields for frolicking. Mid-July, while busy, features park waterfalls approaching full-throttle. September can be glorious, with mild temperatures and pockets of aspen gold highlighting the hemlocks, cedars and pines. Winter shuts down Going-to-the-Sun Road and most of St. Mary on the east side of the park, but there’s excellent snowshoeing and cross-country skiing near West Glacier.

 
AVOID THE CROWDS

 
Head someplace other than the Going-to-the-Sun Road and you’ll escape Glacier’s peak-season crowds. Mosey up the Outside North Fork Road toward British Columbia on Glacier’s west side and you can dart into the park to Logging, Bowman or Kintla lakes for solitude. The Two Medicine Lake area on the park’s southeastern corner also offers peace and quiet. Day hikes from Lake McDonald, St. Mary Lake and Swiftcurrent Lake guarantee you’ll flee the crowds.

 
CAN’T MISS

 
Lake McDonald may best epitomize Glacier. The setting -- a lakeside lodge, high-mountain tarn, soaring summits -- is perfect, but it’s only one small corner of the park. Logan Pass, the high point of Going-to-the-Sun Road, straddles the Continental Divide and offers gorgeous views of the craggy Garden Wall formation as well as two U-shaped valleys sculpted by glaciers. Plus, you’re ensured a close-up glimpse of those mountain goats! Many Glacier Hotel also shouldn’t be missed, if only to take in Swiftcurrent Lake with its mountainous backdrop.

 
BARGAIN LODGING/DINING

 
While the lodges -- Lake McDonald Lodge and Many Glacier Hotel -- are architecturally gorgeous from the outside -- inside the rooms are cramped and nothing special. The cabins at Apgar Village Lodge (westglacier.com, 406-888-5484) are nicer. For an unusual night’s sleep, Lodgepole Gallery and Tipi Village (blackfeetculturecamp.com, 406-338-2787) near Browning, Mont., just east of the park, offer full-size teepees, complete with fire pits. Relaxed meals can be found at Jammer Joe’s (406-888-5160), a pizza and pasta place at Lake McDonald, or Two Dog Flats Grill (406-892-2525) near the Rising Sun Motor Inn on the eastern side of the park. Don’t miss the Park Cafe in St. Mary, which offers a wide array of homemade pies (the “razzleberry” is built with blueberries, blackberries and raspberries) along with breakfasts, lunches and dinners that won’t break your wallet.

 
INSIDE TRACK

 
Literally! Take a time machine back to this earlier America of wilderness grandeur and add a classic rail journey to the mix. From east (Chicago) or west (Portland/Seattle), take Amtrak and get off at four Glacier area stops. That includes Essex, Mont., for a stay in the Izaak Walton Inn. Rent a car there.

-- Kurt Repanshek, author of "National Parks With Kids"